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Drenched in Balinese Culture: Ketut (Part 4)

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Drenched in Balinese Culture: Ketut (Part 4)

After a jam packed day of constant culture shock we finally made our way to the kitchen for the Balinese traditional cooking class from Tinggly! Get yourself ready to have a mouth on fire! Brings me back to ATL's Varsity shouts of, "Whad'ya have!?!" Three, four, five or six chilies?

To read the cultural revelations we had prior to the cooking class, check out Part 1 here, Part 2 here and Part 3 here.

We arrived in the outdoor kitchen exhausted from all of the learning and drenched with sweat from our trek up the rice terraces in the day's humidity. Our stomachs were ready too, as Made had been teasing us throughout the entire morning by picking ingredients along the way and letting us smell the delicious aromas. We were excited to get our cooking on!

As we walked up to the kitchen, Made's nephew was fishing in the family's pond!

Just waiting for a bite.

Just waiting for a bite.

We heard a "Woop, woop!" He caught a fish! We were all yelling with excitement. Made turned to us,  "Do you want it fried or grilled?" I was confused, "Oh, no! He caught it! He should have it!" Again, completely different cultures. I was thinking he did all the work, the fish was his prize. Made brought me back to her culture of community. "No, it's for everyone! We'll all have it!"

Stinkin' adorable!

Stinkin' adorable!

The menu for the class was soup, coconut salad, corn fritters, pork steamed in banana leaves, chicken on lemon grass skewers, banana fritters, sweet potato rice and now a side of fish!

Everything was cooked on the wood fire stove!

Everything was cooked on the wood fire stove!

Amazingly, all of the ingredients were pulled from the family's garden and compound, except the salt, pepper and coriander. Incredible!

Lemon grass, ginger, tumeric, chilies, peppers, garlic, coconut, salad (red onion), kaffir lime leaves, corn... 

Lemon grass, ginger, tumeric, chilies, peppers, garlic, coconut, salad (red onion), kaffir lime leaves, corn... 

Made explained that we must know the two most important aspects to Balinese cooking. One, you must have fresh ingredients. Two, you, "Chop, chop, chop," all the spices together in one big mix and then use bits of the mix for each part of the meal. A little in the soup, a little with the pork, some with the chicken, etc.

The big question finally arrived. "How many chilies?" I gulped and my eyes got big again. Adam has been force feeding himself the local spicy food for every meal to get acclimated. I, on the other hand, cheer him on and have been taking my time preferring the "local" French bakery over the spicy Balinese food sometimes (okay a lot of times). So, we settled on three hot chilies instead of the normal six Made usually makes for her family. I know, I know, I'm the weakest link. I'm getting there!

We used grinding stones and pestles throughout the cooking!

We used grinding stones and pestles throughout the cooking!

Start chopping the onion, garlic, and chilies for the spice mix. 

Start chopping the onion, garlic, and chilies for the spice mix. 

Made and her sister-in-law didn't trust Adam chopping. They were afraid he would cut his fingers off, so they took over and made Adam start on the coconut shavings. 

Made and her sister-in-law didn't trust Adam chopping. They were afraid he would cut his fingers off, so they took over and made Adam start on the coconut shavings. 

Chop, chop, chop until the spices look like dis. Then, you start mixing the spices into the chicken by grinding it together and the pestle and stone. 

Chop, chop, chop until the spices look like dis. Then, you start mixing the spices into the chicken by grinding it together and the pestle and stone. 

But first, mix in the salt, palm sugar, and the kaffir lime leaf. 

But first, mix in the salt, palm sugar, and the kaffir lime leaf. 

Coconut shavings for the coconut salad. 

Coconut shavings for the coconut salad. 

I was working on smashing the garlic, salad (red onion) and the chilies for the corn fritters. 

I was working on smashing the garlic, salad (red onion) and the chilies for the corn fritters. 

Corn fritters comin' right up!

Corn fritters comin' right up!

Mix the pork with the spices. 

Mix the pork with the spices. 

Made showing us how to wrap the chicken around lemon grass stalks for the grill and how to roll the pork into banana leaves for steaming. 

Made showing us how to wrap the chicken around lemon grass stalks for the grill and how to roll the pork into banana leaves for steaming. 

Rolling the pork in banana leaves. 

Rolling the pork in banana leaves. 

Adam on the lemon grass chicken skewers. 

Adam on the lemon grass chicken skewers. 

Can't forget the staple: rice with sweet potatoes!

Can't forget the staple: rice with sweet potatoes!

Looking good!

Looking good!

The pork ready to go on the stove to be steamed!

The pork ready to go on the stove to be steamed!

Chicken's going on the grill. 

Chicken's going on the grill. 

Now, we wait. 

Now, we wait. 

Once the food was complete, Made created fifteen separate offerings of flowers, rice and other bits of all of the food we had prepared as a way to give thanks and bless the meal.

The offerings with flowers, food, rice and holy water. 

The offerings with flowers, food, rice and holy water. 

She set the offerings all over the food preparation area near every resource that helped make the meal. One was placed on the stove, one near their natural spring, another near the pond, one in the tree where the lime came from, one near the bathroom, another at the kitchen entrance, and one in the area where we were eating. With each offering, she placed both the flowers and the rice down, lit an incense and flicked holy water on the offering for the blessings.

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It was amazing to watch this tradition! We have learned that about 30% of a woman's daily time is dedicated to preparing all of the blessings and offerings. That is a lot of time focusing on giving thanks!

It was now time to eat! We were so full from taste testing along the way, but we couldn't help but stuff ourselves to continue consuming the goodness.

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Coconut salad

Coconut salad

Soup

Soup

Corn fritters

Corn fritters

To truly get the local eating experience, just find a seat on any flat surface and dig in with your hands mixing everything with the rice! Yum!

This was all I could eat after all the taste testing. 

This was all I could eat after all the taste testing. 

With our bellies full, we relaxed, were treated with tea and coffee and had the treat of meeting Made’s mother-in-law and adorable kiddos!

We interrupted Kadek's corn snack with our photo shoot!

We interrupted Kadek's corn snack with our photo shoot!

Beautiful Grandma and Kadek. 

Beautiful Grandma and Kadek. 

Adam and I looked at my watch and then at each other. It was only 2 pm! We were worn out and exhausted. We had only spent six, short hours with Made and her family, but we tried to keep up and soak up the intricacies of Balinese culture. I felt so heavy like I had been totally immersed into a whole new way of living in every aspect!

Our final walk through the compound. 

Our final walk through the compound. 

The car ride home was silent as we both looked out our respective windows watching the kites fly over the rice paddies. We were lost in our own reflections. We wanted to remember each moment of this amazing day forever! One thing we both knew, we were addicted to learning more about this beautiful Balinese culture. We think we could settle here for a while!

It's kite flying season on Bali. The wind is just right, so all the kids build their own kites and fly them over the rice paddies. He's on his way!

It's kite flying season on Bali. The wind is just right, so all the kids build their own kites and fly them over the rice paddies. He's on his way!

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Drenched in Balinese Culture: Putu (Part 1)

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Drenched in Balinese Culture: Putu (Part 1)

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Our first 24 hours in Ubud, Indonesia changed the trajectory of our nuventures this summer.

The morning started off groggy as we were whisked off at 8 am to a Tinggly cooking class with a local Balinese family. Six hours later on the car ride back we were absolutely silent from the pure exhaustion of full bellies and our minds bursting from the newness of the day. Our entire beings- minds, bodies and souls- were worked from every angle as we were drenched, soaked and fully immersed in Balinese culture. What we had learned over the short time with this family had challenged every bit of life we have ever known. Our time there was one of the most impactful cultural experiences we have had yet on our nuventures.

I have been struggling to write this blog over the last several days, because I can't condense this wonderful experience. There is too much to share about this beautiful culture we have only just begun to understand. So, I have decided to break up our reflections into sections.

Welcome to Part Putu (the first)!

The taxi's twists and turns through narrow alley ways brought us to the family's compound entrance. As we climbed the concrete stairs and crossed over the threshold, we knew we were in for an adventure. We really didn't know what to expect. We only knew there would be a Balinese family and some sort of cooking class involved. The experience redefined our nuventures!

An entrance into a family's compound. 

An entrance into a family's compound. 

Made, our hostess, immediately calmed any nerves we had as she walked toward us welcoming us in with her bright and beautiful smile while gesturing us forward. As we met, the normal start to a new relationship began in broken English. “Where are you from?”

“America”

We have begun to reply this way, because we have received many confused faces in response to the "United States." However, eyes light up when people hear "America." Normally, the next question is, “Ah! America! What part? New York? Los Angeles?”

We have also started responding with “Colorado.” Folks aren't too familiar with Georgia.

Made’s expression lit up, “I’ve been to Denver!”

Can't believe this!

Can't believe this!

“What?!?” Here we are standing in a strange family’s yard in Bali, Indonesia and Made and Adam are playing the name game of who they both know in the accounting world in Denver, Colorado. The world doesn’t get much smaller than that!

Here we are standing between the family's temple, the human temple, a family's house to the right, sleeping rooms ahead and the kitchen to to the left. 

Here we are standing between the family's temple, the human temple, a family's house to the right, sleeping rooms ahead and the kitchen to to the left. 

We spent the first bit of the day excited to hear all about Made’s US adventures spending months in Colorado and Hawaii. Just crazy! Now, she lives in Ubud, Indonesia and is married with two adorable kiddos. She was excited to tour us around her family's compound before we started on the cooking.

To me, the word “compound” sounds so harsh and confining; a word you would use to describe a section of a prison. Oh, no. To the Balinese, this is just the English term for their home. Their compound is the center of the universe where the most important pieces of life happen. This is their home.

Front porch and front door into a brother's home. Look at the detail!

Front porch and front door into a brother's home. Look at the detail!

In the Balinese culture, an entire family lives in a compound together. However, each family has their own separate home on the property. Normally, when a son gets married, he and his wife move into a house on his parent’s compound and they start their family there. Made's husband has several brothers. Each is married and now has their own home within the compound.

Opposite from western culture, in some Balinese families, the youngest son receives most of the inheritance instead of the oldest. We learned the implications of this as the youngest son had the first and highest house in the compound. The oldest son's house was the furthest back on the property. Interesting...

Another brother's home. 

Another brother's home. 

One way to know a Balinese person’s placement in their family is by their name. We had already met a lot of Putu’s, so this was a revelation for us! It turns out, Putu, Wayan or Gede is the name for every family’s first child. Made (our hostess' name) or Kadek is the name for the second child. The third child is Nyoman or Komang and the fourth is Ketut. These names are the same whether the child is a boy or girl. Since there are a lot of Putus running around, they are distinguished by their last name or a nickname. Interestingly, if a family has more than four children, the naming cycle repeats and the fifth child will be named Putu Balik meaning “another Putu.” We just met a man that is the third Made of his family! There were so many kids, the names cycled through for a third time!

The family's temple. 

The family's temple. 

We were still standing at the entrance of their compound and our minds were already blown and reeling!

One of the most important areas of the compound, is the family’s temple. Everyone in the family comes together for ceremonies often. As we continue to learn more about the Balinese culture everyone says, "Many, many ceremonies!"

The "human" temple with beds and a tv!

The "human" temple with beds and a tv!

Ceremonies are always taking place for every kind of event you could imagine; the new moon, full moon, blessing everything in the compound made of iron, birthdays, even weddings! Every six months birthdays are celebrated, but are very different. They don't celebrate the day you were born and Made thought we were crazy when asked if they have birthday cake. She said she has never experienced a birthday cake in her life!

Made's auntie came out of the kitchen to say hello. She let us sneak a peak into her kitchen while she was cooking!

Wood fire stove.

Wood fire stove.

The "countertop."

The "countertop."

As we were all speaking in broken English to each other, we heard Made say the word "placenta." We were shocked. Made had great English, but placenta is a pretty intense word to know. I mean, I can count on my fingers the amount of times I have had a conversation about placentas. Adam and I both repeated, "placenta?" She said "Yes, yes. We give offerings to the placentas every day." The world placenta was confirmed again!

We learned placentas are a very important part of life for the Balinese. The placentas from each birth are put into a coconut shell and buried near the entrance of the family’s house and marked with a flat stone. The four sons' placentas were buried to the left of the front steps and the one daughter's was to the right of the steps. This tradition is believed to attract spiritual guides for each child.  A Balinese friend of ours, Guli, later described the placenta as a "brother" and no matter where he goes or travels, he only dreams when he is at home where his placenta is.

One of the family's front porches and front door. The placentas were buried right below the porch. 

One of the family's front porches and front door. The placentas were buried right below the porch. 

As Adam and I were learning all this, we were nodding our heads a lot and just trying to keep up as our minds were reeling. Everything Made was explaining as her normal way of life was so drastically different than anything we have ever known. Trying to get grips on this new way of life, I asked, "Made, what did you think about life in America being so different from here?” Since Made had spent so much time in the US, I was so curious to know her perspective.

Made snagging a lime off of one of the trees. 

Made snagging a lime off of one of the trees. 

She laughed, was a little hesitant and explained her take on the differences.

She essentially explained that Americans spend every day working because we are so independent. We aren't with our family, so we have to work to have food and a home. She continued to say that if she didn't work for a week, she would be okay because she lived with her family and would still have food from their land. Summing it up, "Americans spend their days working and a Balinese day is spent with the family."

Wow! The honest truth! I'm sure my look wasn't too different than this...

Want to know what happens next? Read on to Drenched in Balinese Culture: Made (Part 2) here!

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Feeling a bit Tinggly in Thailand!

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Feeling a bit Tinggly in Thailand!

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We have been feeling pretty Tinggly here lately with all our Nuventures! Adam and I are partnering with Tinggly as their ambassadors testing and reviewing their worldwide inventory of experiences. We are pumped to be a part of their unique mission: gifting people with amazing experiences all over the world!

When we got married, we dreamed of future holidays and adventures together on the Mediterranean Sea, in the Alps or cruising Thailand in a long-tail boat. (Now, we can check one of those off our bucket list!) We decided we wanted to start a new tradition for ourselves. Instead of giving each other physical gifts each holiday, we want to simply spend time together and make memories in amazing new spots around the world.

Thankfully, we discovered Tinggly. A perfect fit to what we are looking for! Instead of giving a gift that someone may never use, Tinggly provides hundreds of experiences all over the world for people to gift to one another. The receiver is then able to choose which experience they want, wherever they want!

Our first assignment: the James Bond ISland Tour, Krabi, Thailand

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 And, we were off getting Tinggly! We quickly realized our first adventure's focus was more about the journey rather than the destination. We jumped in the minibus, escaping the tourism of Krabi, and drove the country side seeing the real Thailand. We whizzed by local markets selling brooms made of wild grass, trucks fully loaded with palm bunches on the way to make palm oil, and perfectly aligned rubber tree farms. Then, we hopped into a long-tail boat through Phang Nga Bay. Adam and I were speechless. We were overwhelmed by the dramatic scenery of the limestone cliffs and towering islands bordering the bay.

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As the long-tail boat skirted the edges of the islands, the cliffs just seemed to be dripping above us.

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Our main goal was to set our sights on James Bond Island. The island is famous for it's debut in 007's The Man with the Golden Gun. Look familiar?

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After this spot, we jumped back in the boat and were on our way to the floating village of Panyee.

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Panyee was the highlight of our adventure. The village was seriously floating with homes, shops and restaurants on stilts. No solid ground underneath, only water!

After lunch we snuck past the tourist shops and wandered the village alleys. We dodged kids riding their bikes, playing soccer, and tackling each other on the three foot wide sidewalks used as their playground. They didn't have soft, cushy grass along the path, but six foot drop offs into the water on either side. Homes and bars that we passed had wooden slats for the floors. Drop anything, your ring, your keys, your fork, your pen and it would be gone in an instant into the murky sea water below only maybe to be seen again at low tide.

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How many times have they cursed the holes in their floors? For the kiddos, I'm sure that is all they know. No fear to fall off their bike into the water below. They will just find the village ladder and climb right back up!

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Later, we visited the reclining Buddha statue in the Suwankuha Temple, otherwise known as Monkey Cave. Monkeys welcomed us in while the bats soared over head between the stalactites as we went deeper into the cave.

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A bit creeped out by the bats, we monkeyed around with the fury locals outside the cave until we were almost caught in a scramble over bananas. The monkeys changed in an instant with terrifying growls, fangs gleaming and crazy speed over the rocky terrain. Monkeying around turned into giving some serious distance and respect.

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Tinggly's experience took Adam and I on an all day Thailand adventure. We hung out with locals, played soccer with the kiddos on their floating village, pondered and reflected on Thailand's amazing culture, got a shocking view of the wildlife  and gazed at the amazing landscape Thailand boasts.

Get your Tinggly on and gift someone you love with their dream adventure!

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New Zealand Campervan Catastrophes

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New Zealand Campervan Catastrophes

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Our five month camper van road trip in New Zealand has been a journey we will never forget. With a bed in the back, we have vowed we will be tent camping no more unless we are in the backcountry. Hey, we camped in a tent for four months on our US road trip. We did our time.

Last day with our good ol' camper van, Bernie. You treated us well for all five months and killed those 16,000 km. We'll miss ya, boy!

Last day with our good ol' camper van, Bernie. You treated us well for all five months and killed those 16,000 km. We'll miss ya, boy!

We woke up to new, stunning New Zealand views every morning. We are sold! Forget a house, we are dreaming of living in a campervan! We were outside all the time. We fell asleep next to bubbling brooks and woke up to views we would never have in a house or hotel. We had most of our meals outside soaking in beautiful vistas of coastlines and mountain ranges for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We have even stumbled upon the southern lights and an eclipse just because we have been more in tune with nature. It’s been incredible!

Waking up to mountain tops covered in snow! Ah!

Waking up to mountain tops covered in snow! Ah!

We have had our fair share of catastrophes and fails, though. How 'bout that time...

We had our nightmare on the Forgotten HighwaY

We should have known we were setting out for bad news. The name is the Forgotten World Highway for a reason. There’s nothing on it. Well, to be honest, we knew there were four campsites along the route, so we thought we would be okay.

We passed the first two in the daylight and thought we could make it to the next one. One thing we have learned about New Zealand is the distance on maps is incredibly deceptive. In reality, it takes three times longer than you estimate due to the winding and curving roads. Well, this was just the case this time, too. We underestimated our timing.

By now it was dark and we finally got to the next campsite option. Our headlights hit the locked gate. No access. Okay, moving on. We made it to the next site. This is it! We are home for the night. No, no campsite here. It was midnight at this point, we had been driving for hours and Adam finally just pulled over at a rest stop in the pitch black. I looked over and our van was situated on a decline with a cliff only feet away.

As we got into bed, I asked, “Is the parking break on?” My mind was racing of the what if’s. Ladies, you get this. Adam, knowing me too well said, “Lindsey, if we roll, we’ll roll into the tree." Oh, great, we'll just roll into the tree on the edge of the cliff. Hell no! I scrambled out of bed, jumped into the drivers seat and steamed down the never ending Forgotten Highway. Adam stayed in the back snuggled up all cosy in bed.

Driving further and further there was nothing. We were in rural New Zealand and good luck to anyone trying to read road signs in the dark. I kept politely asking for Adam to help me find the next campsite. Silence. “Oh, you’re going to play that game?” I have never been so livid. He always expects me to navigate for him and the time I’m powering through to get us to a safe spot to sleep, he’s not helping me! I’m talking to him, he’s not responding.

I know he’s awake. I turn on the music just to ensure he can't sleep. Again, I ask him to help me. I’m missing turn offs and signs for new camp sites because I can’t see the gosh darn signs. He’s still not talking. I crank up the music, loud, blasting it as loud as the knob will go. It's so loud, I can’t even think straight. I’m fuming at him! I keep missing turns and I don’t know where to go. I keep pulling over to look at maps, but keep missing signs. Oh, sweet Adam is still in the back, cuddled up, cozy and silent. Can you believe him?!?

At this point I’m crying from frustration and exhaustion. I don’t know where to go and when I need Adam’s help, he’s not showing up to help me. Desperate, I just pull into a motel parking lot and fall into the bed in the back of Bernie. If we had a house, I would have kicked Adam out that night. The couch wouldn’t have even been an option.

And the night we were attacked and kicked out of our campsite by the vicious flock of keA

Don't be fooled. Kea fly in gangs, consume rubber, can run as fast as your small terrier, and have beaks sharpened for war. Quite intimidated and outnumbered, we were run out of our campsite!

Don't be fooled. Kea fly in gangs, consume rubber, can run as fast as your small terrier, and have beaks sharpened for war. Quite intimidated and outnumbered, we were run out of our campsite!

Remember that time we were invaded by thousands of ENORMOUS beetles

How peaceful and calm this looks. Our experience was the complete opposite: Hysterics followed by chaos!

How peaceful and calm this looks. Our experience was the complete opposite: Hysterics followed by chaos!

So, we pulled into a green, grassy campsite in a beautiful gorge with a river flowing through and a historic bridge as a backdrop. I started pulling out our camping chairs and tv table to get ready to make dinner. I unfolded our little pink camping chair and immediately went peddling backwards screaming! The chair was covered with tens, hundreds, thousands of black beetles all 2 inches long! (Okay, I know I’m exaggerating, but there were tons! They were HUGE!)

I screamed and started freaking out at Adam. My fright turned to rage and even got stubborn Adam to clean off every one of them as he laughed hysterically. He started flicking them off the chair right next to the van. “What are you thinking?!? Not next to the van!!!” I made him go as far away as possible to execute those buggers. I had the whole campsite gaping at my hysterics.

Dinner was delayed as I pulled everything out of the van and scoured every nook and cranny of every item in every box until I was satisfied that every single beetle had been exterminated. Adam had left the pink chair out all night at a beach the night before and these nocturnal beetles found comfort in the seat of the folded pink chair in the morning. Unknown to us, we shoved the chair and the hundreds of beetles into the van and transported them all day! Disgusting! Thankfully, they were subdued during their transport, so many didn’t escape the chair’s boundaries. Thank God I found them before they became active that night as we slept right above them! Ah! I cringe at the thought.

My meticulous cleanse wasn’t thorough enough, though. We found remnants of other beetles throughout the van in the days to come. You bet no item has been left outside or will ever be left outside ever again!

Oh, and how many nights did we compete to see who could kill more sandflies and mosquitos?

And the time we found a wee bird in our push bike wheel. We felt horrible. 

And the time we found a wee bird in our push bike wheel. We felt horrible. 

Can't forget the Flood of 2015

All right, so Adam, our beloved, intellectual, college edumucated CPA, has a history of making terribly illogical decisions when storing large amounts of liquid. On our US roadtrip, he insisted on storing a gallon of Gain washing detergent in a Ziploc bag stored in the exact spot that we were shoving our gear in and out every morning and every night. Ziploc, I believe in you, but not that much. Turns out, I was right. The bag exploded.

Round two: New Zealand. With Bernie, we inherited an unused thick plastic camping bag that boasted it could hold 5 gallons of water. I doubted that from the moment we layed eyes on it. We already lived through this. So, we argued. Adam didn’t budge, so I gave up. The bag made it the first two months. Surprisingly, the plastic bag got a hole in it! What? Can you believe it? Poor Bernie’s carpet and everything stored under the bed were soaked for weeks.

Every chance we got we hauled everything out of the van and had it air dry. Wonderful Nancy and David on the sheep farm even tried a heater and fan on it for days. We won’t make that decision again. I’m putting my foot down.

Oh no. We are following a truck load of 45 porte-johns up a mountain pass. If anything goes wrong, things could get really sh!$&y!

Oh no. We are following a truck load of 45 porte-johns up a mountain pass. If anything goes wrong, things could get really sh!$&y!

These are the true, imperfect tales of #nuventures. I hear they say, "Whatever doesn't kill you makes you stronger." I'll hang onto that.

These accounts are unbiased, with no name calling or blame, and are objective in all aspects.

"I'll go climb the tree. This will be the perfect picture! Ugh, ugh... hold on a sec. Wait, ugh. I'm getting there."

"I'll go climb the tree. This will be the perfect picture! Ugh, ugh... hold on a sec. Wait, ugh. I'm getting there."

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